Telmo Rodríguez left his family estate in Rioja in the early 1990s to make his name in the rest of Spain. When he returned to Rioja to start Bodega Lanzaga with his friend Pablo Eguzkia in 1998, he brought with him a broad experience of the outside world, not only in Spain but also in Burgundy, Bordeaux (where he studied) and the Rhône. This experience urged him to approach Rioja in a different way to that laid out by the Consejo Regulador, something which chimed with Telmo’s innately rebellious character. His knowledge of the history of Alavesa also informed his decision-making, for he knew that old vines had been planted on the hills surrounding the village of Lanziego for centuries. As their thinking crystallised, the concept of a Burgundian approach to Rioja became clear, something that makes this Bodega one of the most exciting in the region. Their village wine, Lanzaga, is made from the some of the best fruit grown around Lanciego. Much to Telmo’s distaste, he was told by the Consejo Regulador that Lanciego could not be used on the label he submitted for approval. Characteristically, he drew a black line across the name rather than remove it completely, as his hope is that one day his Burgundian approach will be accepted by the authorities. This wine is produced with fruit grown in dozens of plots that add up to the 20 hectares farmed around the village. A selection of the best fruit is hand harvested and fermented in cement tanks. The wine is then aged in a mix of large and small oak form barriques (up to 25hl) for a maximum of 14 months. The result is rich and complex, an elegant and beautiful wine with a unique expression and sense of place. The grapes were hand-picked and transported in small boxes to the winery where most of the fruit was destemmed. The Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano grapes were co-fermented with indigenous yeasts in cement tanks. The wine spent 14 months in a mix of 15 to 25 hectolitre foudres and 225 litres barriques before blending and bottling without finning and filtration in June 2021. Intensely dark crimson, this is a rich and complex Rioja with subtle floral notes and sweet oak spices and a very well-defined dark forest fruit core. The elegance is matched by a very structured and defined palate, with powerful yet round tannins, well integrated alcohol, and a persistent finish.
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